Nice

Nice is the warm, sun-soaked capital of the French Riviera, and its queer life beats right inside the Old Town (Vieux Nice). Around Place Garibaldi, the Cours Saleya and the narrow lanes running toward the port, most of the gay bars sit within easy walking distance of one another. Le Glam is the scene's anchor, with pop and drag nights from Friday to Sunday, while Le Six is one of the oldest addresses and still puts on a show. Add the cabaret bar La Cave Wilson, the karaoke spot Le Swing, the playful Le Couloir and the newer, disco-loud Blitz Bar, plus Ramdam Bar, which doubles as a concept store. The scene isn't huge, but it's dense and relaxed, busiest from Thursday to Sunday and electric during Pride week in July.

Being Mediterranean, Nice means the water too. East of the port sits Coco Beach, a rocky cove long popular with gay and nude sunbathers, though informal — it's not sand, so bring a mat and your own food and drink, as there are no services. More central and mixed is Castel Plage at the eastern end of the bay below Castle Hill, a good daytime meeting point with sunloungers. For more seclusion, hop on a bus or train and follow the coast toward Èze.

The queer calendar has two peaks. Lou Queernaval, France's first gay carnival, turns Place Masséna into a free festival of drag, feathers and batucada drums every February. In July the Pink Parade — Nice's Pride — marches from the port along the Promenade des Anglais, followed by parties and shows. Practical orientation tip: stay in or right beside Vieux Nice and you can walk to the bars, the Cours Saleya market, the beach and Castle Hill, so you'll never need a car.